Glimpse of Heaven Amidst Constraints:

Travel to Kashmir During Operation Sindoor

“Gar firdaus, ruhe zamin ast, hamin asto, hamin asto, hamin ast,” Kashmir

Kashmir has long been hailed as “Paradise on Earth,” a place where snow-capped peaks kiss azure skies. Where meadows bloom like strokes of an artist’s brush, and where lakes mirror the serenity that this land exudes. For travelers and dreamers alike, it remains an ethereal escape from the monotony of everyday life. But during Operation Sindoor, a large-scale counter-terror operation was carried out in the region. This paradise bore a different atmosphere—one where beauty and tension coexisted in delicate balance.

The Beauty That Persists

Despite the increased military presence and restricted movements during Operation Sindoor, Kashmir’s natural splendor remained untouched. In the early morning, the Dal Lake still shimmered under the rising sun, its iconic houseboats gently swaying with the water’s rhythm. The Mughal Gardens bloomed defiantly in bursts of color. And the mighty Gulmarg slopes, though quieter than usual, stood majestic with their powdery snow and whispering pine forests.

Even with fewer tourists, the spirit of Kashmir’s warm-hearted people didn’t waver. Conversations with local shopkeepers and shikara boatmen were tinged with hope—hope that peace would prevail and visitors would soon return in full. Their resilience, much like the valley itself, was a reminder that even amidst uncertainty, life and beauty endure.

Curtailed Journeys and Silent Valleys

The Pahalgam attack shook the sense of safety that both tourists and locals had begun to rebuild over recent years. Coming at the height of the summer travel season, the incident not only claimed innocent lives but also prompted swift responses from authorities. Within hours, the government issued a travel advisory, urging visitors to reconsider or postpone non-essential travel to certain parts of Kashmir, especially in South Kashmir.

Inspite of the travel Advisory I planned to visit Kashmir as per my original schedule and reached Srinagar on 5^th May early morning. My travel agent had already sent a car for me and my family to move to the Hotel in Main Srinagar Town but as we stepped outside the terminal it felt like a heavily guarded fortress. There was a sense of urgency and emergency everywhere.

The roads were empty (later understood Srinagar wakes up late). Our plan was simple and the itinerary was made by our Travel Agency Ehaab Tours and Travels, Gulmarg. First day Srinagar local Sight seeing, Second day Sonamarg, third Day at Doodhpatri, fourth day at Gulmarg with Gondola Ride, Fifth day at Pahalgam and sixth day return to Srinagar for return journey.

Flight Delhi to Srinagar with my SON Ashish

5^th May 2025

First day went uneventful. We checked into our Hotel Green Ambition, got freshened up, had our heartful breakfast and proceeded for Srinagar Local tour. Srinagar is not just a city—it is an experience, a symphony of nature, culture, and history that leaves visitors spellbound. Often described as the “Jewel of the Valley,” Srinagar’s beauty lies in its perfect blend of majestic landscapes, tranquil waters, charming gardens, and warm-hearted people.

We explored the Mughal Gardens, Pari Mahal, Chasme Sahi one more beautiful than the other. Secluded within the scenic Dal Lake, every spot was mesmerizing. Weather was marvellous and was truly worth the visit. To my disdain Tulip Garden had closed a week before. After visiting almost four gardens surrounding Dal Lake we proceeded for Lunch and then crashed to Hotel to rest. In the evening, we went to the wooden Bridge over Dal River. It was beautiful, some people singing, some enjoying the moment. The lighting on the bridge was very good and place tourist friendly.

Kids enjoying at Mugal Gardens, Srinagar

Second Day 6^th May 2025-

We started for our journey to Sonmarg, another gem of a place in Kashmir Sonmarg—literally meaning “Meadow of Gold”—is nature at its raw, awe-inspiring best. Framed by towering glaciers and wrapped in lush alpine meadows, it serves as the last major stop before one crosses into the stark wilderness of Zojila Pass, the dramatic gateway to Ladakh.

Together, Sonmarg and Zojila offer an unforgettable journey—where pristine beauty meets thrilling adventure, and every curve of the road reveals a new marvel of the Himalayas.

Zojila Pass was on my bucket list and I would not have missed it anyhow. Zojila is more than a road—it’s a threshold, a place where you feel the pulse of the mountains, where nature demands respect, and where every traveler becomes a humble witness to the might of the Himalayas.

While returning to Sonmarg from Zojila Pass, our driver showed us the hotel where Salman Khan stayed during shooting of his iconic film Bajrangi Bhaijan and the place which was made as Border within the small town of Sonmarg in the film.

At Sonmarg

At Zojila Pass Altitude 11649 Ft

Third Day 7^th May 2025-

Original Plan was Doodhpatri enroute to Gulmarg but due to operation sindoor, JK Government stopped the tourist from proceeding to Doodhpatri. So Plans changed, We checked out of Hotel and proceeded to visit Manasbal Lake about 30 Kms from Srinagar. Surrounded by gentle hills, orchards, and lotus-covered shallows, the lake’s glassy surface often mirrors the sky so perfectly that it’s hard to tell where water ends and air begins. After visiting Manasal Lake, next on itinerary was Gulmarg and its breathtaking Gondola Ride (tickets were booked in advance).

Then came the news, Police has closed Gulmarg for tourists and gondola closed. Gulmarga and its Gondola Ride was in my  bucket list and motivation to visit Kashmir. I felt very disappointed and started other calculations. We headed back to Srinagar and as situation of war was looming, requested my Guide to drop us at Jammu. The airports of Srinagar and Jammu were closed as they belong to Indian Air Force. Our Guide then assured us of safety and informed that best way is to travel by road to Jammu next day on 8^th May 2025. We again checked into a new Hotel and took rest the full evening.

At Manasbal Lake

Fourth Day 8^th May 2025-

Never in my dreams I expected the next two days will turn into like this. As the morning sun kissed Srinagar, we started our Journey from Srinagar to Jammu. We were happy to just return back amid so many restrictions. As our car reached Quazigund, we were stopped by local police. A landslide had occurred in Ramban and roads were fully covered with mud and stones due to heavy rains. We had a big family of around 300 people waiting there to cross over.

We waited for around 8 hours at the quazigund checkpost but as the day folded hopes of the road opening faded away. Then we planned to go to the nearest city for hotel. As we searched in Google Maps, nearest big city was Anantnag. We proceeded to Anantnag and reached there at around 4 PM.

After a lot of search finally we got a Hotel and checked in. Anantnag is a beautiful city with a very spectacular view of snow filled mountains and apple plantations. The view from the hotel was mesmerizing and captivating. The phrase Kashmir is heaven on earth was in true sense with that visuals. Me and my family went out to visit apple plantation and it was certainly unique. We met so many locals who invited us to their houses without knowing about us. The warmness the locals exhibited was truly very overwhelming. The tea shop owner refused to take money from us stating we were his guests. How could they be wrong.

Fifth Day 9^th May 2025-

Early morning at 5 AM, we again started for jammu from Anantnag on hearing news that Highway has opened but after reaching the same quazigund checkpost we were again stopped and police informed that some fresh landslide has happened and highways closed again. We were stuck again. We had our flights scheduled on 10^th May from New Delhi and had no plans to postpone the plans. Then on suggestions from our Guide we planned an alternate route. Nearest local train railway station was SADURA from where we caught a train to SANGALDAN.

After reaching sangaldan, we hired a taxi which took us to Jammu bypassing RAMBAN. We reached around 7 PM at Jammu. The whole city was in dark with all lights switched off in anticipation of Drone Attacks from neighbouring country.

As we moved into the platform to catch our train, w could see the bright lights where our defence systems were countering the drones with loud sound and bright lights on impact. Our Train Rajdhani express was to start at 9 PM from Jammu and we were informed to switch off all lights inside the train. The train started very slowly from Jammu Railway station and after some 5 to 10 KMs it took speed. As we moved out from Jammu, we sighed with belief that we were safe.

We reached Delhi on 10^th May and flyed out with memories of Kashmir and its people etched in memories.

Travel during Operation Sindoor was marked by checkpoints, advisories, and a subtle sense of unease. Tourists were advised to remain within designated zones, and many popular trekking trails and rural routes were temporarily off-limits. The usual bustle of Srinagar’s Lal Chowk or the laughter echoing through the valleys of Pahalgam was replaced by a quieter, more introspective Kashmir.

Though safety measures were necessary and understandable, they meant that our exploration was curtailed. There were places we longed to see—the peaceful banks of the Dal River, the saffron fields of Pampore, the high-altitude wonder of Sonmarg—that we could only admire from a distance or through stories told by locals.

Yet, the limited scope of travel also brought unexpected gifts: deeper conversations, more time to linger over a cup of Kahwa, and a heightened appreciation for the moments we could experience.

A Promise to Return

As we left the valley, watching the Himalayan peaks fade into clouds, one thing was certain: this was not a goodbye. It was a brief interlude, a necessary pause in a long-standing romance with the land. The spirit of Kashmir—resilient, welcoming, and breathtaking—calls one back.

The Indian Army’s efforts under Operation Sindoor, aimed at securing long-term peace, are a reminder of the region’s complex reality. But peace is not only a military objective—it is also about ensuring that Kashmir continues to open its arms to travelers from around the world.

Plans are already underway to return, this time with more time, fewer restrictions, and a heart ready to embrace every inch of the valley. There is still much to see, much to learn, and much to be inspired by.

Until then, Kashmir remains etched in memory: not just for its incomparable beauty, but for its quiet strength and the promise of a brighter, freer tomorrow.

I had booked my Kashmir Trip through Ehaab Tour and Travels. You can visit their site https://ehaabtourandtravels.com/ or can contact Mr Nadim on 9596253654. My trip was smooth except the hiccups due to the war like situation. You can certainly utilize their services which are genuine.

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Because no matter how brief the visit or how limited the journey, a trip to Kashmir never truly ends—it simply pauses, waiting for your return. “Gar firdaus, ruhe zamin ast, hamin asto, hamin asto, hamin ast,” which translates to “If there is ever a heaven on earth, it’s here, it’s here, it’s here”.